Flamenco Wrap

Click on images for larger view

Tied around your waist or wrapped around your shoulders, this light and airy piece will add a flair to any ensemble. It'd be just as beautiful over jeans as over a skirt, though you shouldn't be surprised if you feel a sudden desire for spanish guitar and tapas

For added versatility, you can work this pattern in almost any yarn you please, though you should consider the recommendations provided below when choosing a yarn. If ponchos are your thing, make two and sew them together along the original chain edge, leaving an opening in the middle for your head.

Gauge:

You will not be required to work to a particular gauge.

Supplies:

This piece was worked with Artfiber's yarn, Mousse, which is now discontinued. While you can choose almost any yarn, I would recommend a light, drapy, ribbon yarn made of rayon or linen. I needed less than 100 grams to complete the whole piece.
Crochet hook of a size appropriate to yarn. I used a size E which was slightly smaller than the size normally used for that yarn.
Optional: 1-1" button

Stitches used:

Slip stitch (sl st)
Chain (ch)
Single crochet (sc)
Half Double crochet (hdc)
Double Crochet (dc)
Tripple Crochet (trc)

Main mesh piece

Decide how wide you would like your wrap to be.

With crochet hook and yarn, make a chain a little longer than desired final length. Make sure the total number of stitches is a multiple of 4+1
Turn

Row 1: *Ch 5, sc in 4th ch from hook* across
Turn

All other rows: Sl st in first 3 sts, *ch5, sc in next ch5 loop* across

Repeat this until you are down to a single ch5 loop. Cut yarn, pull through loop and weave in ends

You now have a large isosceles triangle. For those who don't remember their Geometry, these are triangles that have two sides of equal length and one of a different length (ok, technically, triangles with 3 equal sides can be considered isosceles triangles, though you would generally call those equilateral, but I'm just knit picking, now). In this case, the original chain edge is longer than the other two. This side is the top of the wrap.

Border

You will need to crochet a border the entire length of each side. I used the edging from this pattern. Every two rows will align with one row of the main mesh piece. Row one, of this pattern, doesn't count. Please refer to the schematic at right. You can download a large PDF by clicking the image or clicking here.

1st Row (RS) Ch 31, work 1dc into 7th ch from hook, [2ch, skip 2ch, 1dc into next ch] 8 times, turn, (9sps.)
2nd Row: Ch5 (count as 1dc, ch2), skip 1st dc, 1dc into next dc, [ch2, 1dc into next dc] 3 times, ch5, skip next 4 sps, 1dc into next sp, work [ch3, 1dc] 3 times into same sp as last dc, turn.
3rd Row: Ch1, 1sc into 1st dc, into 1st ch3 sp work [1hdc, 1dc, 1tr, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc], into next ch3 sp work [1sc, 1hdc, 1dc, 1tr, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc], into next ch3 sp work [1sc, 1hdc, 1dc, 1tr, 1dc, 1hdc], 1sc into next dc, ch5, 1dc, into next dc, [ch2, 1dc into next dc] 4 times placing last dc into 3rd ch of ch5 at beg of prev row, turn.
4th Row: Ch5 (count as 1dc, ch2), skip 1st dc, [1dc into next dc, ch2] 4 time, 1dc into ch5 sp, ch7, skip 1st group of 7 sts, work 1dc into trc at center of next group of 7 sts, [ch3, 1dc]3 times into same st as last dc, turn.
5th Row: Ch1, 1sc into 1st dc, into 1st ch3 sp work [1hdc, 1dc, 1tr, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc], into next ch3 sp work [1sc, 1hdc, 1dc, 1tr, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc], into next ch3 sp work [1sc, 1hdc, 1dc, 1tr, 1dc, 1hdc], 1sc into next dc, 5ch, 1dc into ch7 sp, [ch2, 1dc into next dc] 6 times placing last dc into 3rd ch of ch5 at edg of prev row, turn.
6th Row: Ch5 (count as 1dc, ch2), skip 1st dc, [1dc into next dc, ch2] 6 times, 1dc into ch5 sp, ch7 skip 1st group of 7 sts, work 1dc into trc at center of next group of 7 sts, [ch3, 1dc] 3 times into same st as last dc, turn.
7th Row: 1sc into 1st dc, into 1st ch3 sp work [1hdc, 1dc, 1tr, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc], into next ch3 sp work [1sc, 1hdc, 1dc, 1tr, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc], into next ch3 sp work [1sc, 1hdc, 1dc, 1tr, 1dc, 1hdc], 1sc into next dc, 5ch, i dc into ch7 sp, [ch2, 1dc into next dc] 8 times placing last dc into 3rd ch of ch5 at beg of previous row, turn.

Rep 2nd to 7th rows end with a 7th row. Do this as many times as needed to align to one side of the wrap. Repeat for second side.

Attach edging to piece on each side. Please refer to schematic above.

Make two more individual pattern repeats (Rows 1-7 of pattern above). Again, refer to the schematic for placement. Sew into place.

Closure

You can tie your piece or make a closure as shown to the left.

Rose

Ch4, join with sl
Ch6 (counts as dc + ch3)
*Dc in ch, ch3* 3 times, sl in 3rd ch of original ch6 (5 loops)
Sc in same st, in first ch 3 space *hdc, dc, trc, dc, hdc sc in next dc* Repeat from * to * 4 more times
The second row of petals is worked BEHIND the first row we just completed.
*Ch5, sc around the post of next dc from second row of first flower* 4 times, ch5 and sl st to base of first ch5.
In each Ch5 space work *sc, hdc, dc, 3trc, dc, hdc, sc* ending with a sl in first sc.
Cut yarn and pull through last stitch to finish.

Cut long strands of yarn and attach as a tassel between two petals.

Sew to a button that will fit snuggly into the mesh. A 1" button worked well for me.

Thank you so much for your interest in my patterns. Most of my free patterns were efforts to learn to design and do not conform to industry standards for sizing or terminology. Enough people continue to knit from these designs that I am happy to leave these patterns up for people to use but I cannot offer any amendments or substantial support for them.

As with all my patterns, you are welcome to use these patterns for your own personal, non-commercial or charitable use. If you wish to sell items made from these patterns or teach classes using my patterns, please contact me. Please do not distribute this pattern in print or electronically or post this pattern to your own site or publication. If you wish to share this pattern, please send the person a link to my site.